Smooth Fox Terrier

Less well-known than its wire-haired relative, the Smooth Fox Terrier is an easily recognized breed. Although the heyday of this dog’s popularity is long past, it was well established as a show dog before its wire-haired cousin, and still wins respect as an unpretentious, solid breed with many loyal admirers.

Origin: Both Wire and Smooth Fox Terriers share a common ancestry and are thought to be the descendants of some of the old terrier breeds of England, crossed with hounds. They were used for hunting purposes and have remained active dogs best suited to a country environment.

To attempt to set forth the origin of the Fox terrier as we know him today would be of no interest to the general reader, and would entail the task of tracing back the several heterogeneous sources from which he sprang. It is a matter of very little moment whether he owes his origin to the white English Terrier or to the Bullterrier crossed with the Black and Tan, or whether he has a mixture of Beagle blood in his composition, so it will suffice to take him as he emerged from the chaos of mongrel Dom about the middle of the last century, rescued in the first instance by the desire of huntsmen or masters of well-known packs to produce a terrier somewhat in keeping with their hounds; and, in the second place, to the advent of dog shows. Prior to that time any dog capable, from his size, conformation, and pluck, of going to ground and bolting his fox was a Fox terrier, were he rough or smooth, black, brown, or white.

The starting point of the modern Fox terrier dates from about the sixties, and no pedigrees before that are worth considering.

Temperament: The energy and hunting instincts of Fox Terrier are irrepressible, but with firm handling they make affectionate and protective family pet.

Grooming: Use a stiff brush on a daily basis.

Exercise: Appreciate plenty.

Training: Easily trained.

Physical appearance of Smooth Fox Terrier

Head: The Skull should be flat and moderately narrow, and gradually decreasing in width to the eyes. Not much “stop” should be apparent, but there should be more dip in the profile between the forehead and top jaw than is seen in the case of a Greyhound. The Cheeks must not be full.

Ears: The Ears should be V-shaped and small, of moderate thickness, and dropping forward close to the cheek, not hanging by the side of the head like a Foxhound’s.

Muzzle: The Jaw, upper and under, should be strong and muscular; should be off air punishing strength, but not so in any way to resemble the Greyhound or modern English Terrier. There should not be much falling away below the eyes. This part of the head, should, however, be moderately chiseled out, so as not to go down in a straight line like a wedge.

Nose: The Nose, towards which the muzzle must gradually taper, should be black.

Eyes: The Eyes should be dark in color, small, and rather deep set, full of fire, life, and intelligence; as nearly as possible circular in shape.

Teeth: Should be as nearly as possible level, i.e., the upper teeth on the outside of the lower teeth.

Neck: Should be clean and muscular, without throatiness, of fair length, and gradually widening to the
shoulders.

Shoulders: Should be long and sloping, well laid back, fine at the points, and clearly cut at the withers.

Chest: The Chest deep and not broad.

Back and Loin: The Back should be short, straight, and strong, with no appearance of slackness. The Loin should be powerful and very slightly arched. The fore ribs should be moderately arched, the back ribs deep; and the dog should be well ribbed up.

Hind-quarters: Should be strong and muscular, quite free from droop or crouch; the thighs long and powerful; hocks near the ground, the dog standing well up on them like a Foxhound, and not straight in the stifle.

Stern: Should be set on rather high, and carried gaily, but not over the back or curled. It should be of good strength, anything approaching a “pipe stopper” tail being especially objectionable.

Legs: When viewed in any direction must be straight, showing little or no appearance of an ankle in front. They should be strong in bone throughout, short and straight to pastern. Both fore and hind legs should be carried straight forward in traveling, the stifles not turned outwards. The elbows should hang perpendicular to the body, working free of the side.

Feet: Should be round, compact, and not large. The soles hard and tough. The toes moderately arched, and turned neither in nor out.

Coat: Should be straight, flat, smooth, hard, dense, and abundant. The belly and under side of the thighs should not be bare. As regards color, white should predominate; brindle, red, or liver markings are objectionable. Otherwise this point is of little or no importance.

Symmetry, Size and Character: The dog must present a general gay, lively, and active appearance; bone and strength in a small compass are essentials; but this must not be taken to mean that a Fox terrier should be cloggy, or in any way coarse. Speed and endurance must be looked to as well as power, and the symmetry of the Foxhound taken as a model.

The terrier, like the hound, must on no account be leggy, nor must he be too short in the leg. He should stand like a cleverly made hunter, covering a lot of ground, yet with a short back, as before stated. He will then attain the highest degree of propelling power, together with the greatest length of stride that is compatible with the length of his body. Weight is not a certain criterion of a terrier’s fitness for his work. General shape, size and contour are the main points; and if a dog can gallop and stay, and follow his fox up a drain, it matters little what his weight is to a pound or so, though, roughly speaking, it may be said he should not scale over eighteen pounds in show condition.

Faults to avoid in Smooth Fox Terrier:

Nose: White, cherry, or spotted to a considerable extent with either of these colors.
Ears: Prick, tulip, or rose.
Mouth: Much overshot or much undershot.